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The Ecology of Extreme Environments: Antarctica
Journal of Molly Thompson '06
Degree: Bachelor of Liberal Arts
Major/Department: Biology and Environmental Studies
Hometown: Fort Worth, Texas
Division: Natural Sciences
I am a student of biology and environmental studies. I am interested in doing a lot of field research in the future. This trip was an incredible opportunity to see such a unique ecosystem and to create contacts with scientists and naturalists who do research in extreme environments. It was great to talk to different people who had worked in Antarctica (and other interesting places) and get their advice on ways to be able to make field research happen in my future.
Tuesday, December 13, 2005
At Sea - I've been a little queasy today, but otherwise things are going well. The Drake Passage has been a little rough, though all the members of the crew insist that this is smooth sailing. We are now out in open sea. It's breathtaking. I’ve just been sitting here for hours on the top deck. The sheer vastness of the sea magnetizes me. I’m in awe of the water—the icy blue as the swell breaks onto the side of the ship. I anticipate seeing my first iceberg tomorrow and penguins soon.
Wednesday, December 14, 2005
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| A humpback whale. |
At Sea - The highlight of the day was the pair of humpback whales. It was so amazing to see them swimming all around the ship. Lucky for us, the captain cruised around them a few times. I took some nice shots of them, but nothing will compare to the magic of standing outside watching them. I really hope that we get to see some orcas while we’re here. They think that the orcas here are actually a different species than those in other parts of the world.
Thursday, December 15, 2005
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| A colony of gentoo penguins at Hannah Island. |
Vernadsky Station - I decided to go kayaking this afternoon. I missed the tour of the Ukrainian research station (and the homemade vodka), but it was well worth it. The water was so calm and being in a kayak gives you a completely different perspective than being up in a Zodiac. We saw chinstrap penguins, gentoo penguins, crabeater seals and several flying birds. There was even a seal that came up in the water just a foot or so from the bow of my kayak. I just sat there, completely mesmerized. It was truly amazing to know that the seal was in the water, right next to me, and larger than my kayak. It was incredible.
Friday, December 16, 2005
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| Gentoo penguin parent and chick. |
Peterman Island - Today we saw a whole colony of penguins (mostly Adelie penguins, with some gentoos here and there). There were also some blue-eyed shags nesting with them. I was lucky enough to see the whole drama of the “changing of the parents.” Penguins share equal parenting responsibilities, so one will sit on the eggs or chicks while the other feeds in the ocean for a few days. Then they switch. One penguin waddled back up from the sea, all clean and shiny. The other sat on their two eggs. They would repeatedly cross their necks and call each other. This is crucial, because they recognize their partners based on voice recognition. Gradually it became obvious that the one on the nest was satisfied that the other was indeed his/her partner. Eventually, after much standing around, they switched places.
Monday, December 19, 2005
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| Nesting gentoo penguins. |
The last day in Antarctica! What a day. We went to Deception Island this morning. I decided to skip kayaking today, and instead hike up about 800 feet, toward the "nipple" of the island. It was well worth every step. The view was spectacular. We could see all the way to the mainland of Antarctica (about 70 miles, I think). It was one of the first places where someone stood and spotted the great white continent. We were extremely lucky that the conditions were just right. It's rare to be able to see that far.
After the hike, we came back to the beach to find a nice hot spring dug into the sand. Although the water was only 6 inches deep or so, it was nice to relax. We then took turns running from the hot water into the Antarctic Ocean, which I can tell you is as cold as you might image.
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| Elephant seal and chinstrap penguin. |
In the afternoon, we had a lecture about the different ways that terrestrial flora and fauna have adapted to such an extreme and unforgiving environment. Afterward we headed off to Hannah Island. It was the last and most diverse spot that we visited.
We saw chinstrap penguins, gentoo penguins, macaroni penguins, skuas, elephant seals, nesting giant petrels, kelp gulls, Antarctic terns and several other species of flying birds. We were even able to see two skuas steal and eat a penguin chick.
It was really interesting to see the pair of skuas work together to steal the chick; they took turns distracting the adult penguin, until one finally swooped down and stole the chick. It was certainly gruesome, but interesting to see such behaviors firsthand. It's amazing how close you can get to the wildlife here. I've been told that the reason for this is that they have no predators that walk on land, so to them, we aren't threatening.
I will miss this place. It's been so inspiring to be here, not just to see what I've seen, but also to talk to the naturalists and scientists on board. I really think that in some small way, this ocean has changed me.
Links of Interest for Molly's Journal
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